This one is a keeper. If elegance is refusal then this one embodies indulgence. But only in the sense of flavor. The plate is a paper-lined vessel for a fluffy bun bursting with flavorful garnishes–all accouterments for a marinated salmon that leaves your taste buds spewing, wrapping up with the elusive umami flavor. The salmon, retaining its pillowy white wrapping, and topped with crisp cucumbers and scallions proved itself worth the effort at first bite.
It’s dinners like this that bring me joy. I never thought I could make steamed buns from scratch, especially without a steamer or steam basket. It forced me to be inventive. See my notes below for suggestions. I found this recipe on Rachel Khoo’s website , where I spend quite a lot of time. I believe I have a major girl crush. Her recipes and the simple way of presenting them call to me over and over again.
The recipe for the buns calls for powdered milk, which I haven’t had since I was a kid, though I went looking for some this winter when trying to make my own spicy hot chocolate recipe. It’s not easy to come by. Milk or powdered milk is a way of enhancing the dough to make a softer bun due to the milk fat acting as a tenderizer by interfering with gluten production. Enzymes, like glutathione, in milk can lead to weakened gluten structure and could make the dough too soft. High-heat dry milk is used by pros to avoid this problem. In case you don’t have powdered milk, scalding regular milk above 180F de-natures the enzymes so you could substitute that in for the powdered milk. I just thought it would be fun to use a new ingredient. Just don’t forget to flour every surface, your hands, the table, the rolling pin, GENEROUSLY. Don’t be afraid to look like the Swedish chef muppet with flour all over you. The beauty is in the battle.
This recipe has the essence of home in it, which is odd considering that foreign flavors comprise the entire structure. We often go to Flushing, NY (home of the US Open) after work or working out and inevitably end up in one our favorite restaurant there where we order all sorts of dumplings, buns and soups. We’ve been going there for years. It was a place my husband went to after high school back in the day when classes let out, well before I was even in the picture. Then I showed up and the ritual soon became, hang out with his friends, eat in Flushing. Then Mets games, Flushing. Then US Open, Flushing. Then visit mother-in-law, Flushing. Then just Flushing. That kind of history sticks with you. Everyone around us is a stranger, many of them far away from where they grew up, but while we’re in there, our faces deep in steaming bowls of comfort, we’re all home. It’s a fleeting and warm feeling not easily recreated. This tastes like that.
I left the ingredients in metric form as well as US measurements since I pretty much adapted directly and figured I shouldn’t make it harder for the rest of the world if the conversions have already been done.I hope you all had a wonderful Memorial Day weekend with lots of good food and company.
TERIYAKI SALMON BUNS
Adapted from Rachel Khoo
Ingredients:
For the Salmon:
- 2 tbsp light soy sauce or tamari
- 2 tbsp mirin (Japanese rice wine)
- 2 tbsp runny honey
- 1 red chili, cut into rounds
- 2 salmon fillets, about 150g (5½oz) each
For the bun dough:
- 160g (5¾oz) plain flour, plus extra for dusting
- 1 tbsp dried skimmed milk powder
- 1½tbsp caster sugar
- 1 scant tsp fast-action yeast
- 1 tsp baking powder
- A pinch of sea salt
- 90 ml (3¼fl oz) warm water
- 1 tbsp vegetable oil, plus extra to grease
To serve:
- A handful of fresh cilantro leaves
- 1 lime, quartered
- 1 small cucumber, cut into thin rounds
- 4 spring onions, sliced thinly at an angle
Directions:
Whisk together the soy, mirin, honey and chili in a shallow baking dish, then add the salmon fillets, turning them to coat. Cover and place in the fridge. Put the dry ingredients for the bun dough into a large bowl.
Mix together, then make a well in the center and add the wet ingredients. Use a spoon to bring together, then turn out and knead for 2-3 minutes, or until you have a smooth dough. Place in a bowl greased with vegetable oil and cover with a tea towel or clingfilm. Leave to rise for 45 minutes, or until nearly doubled in size.
Cut out 8 pieces of baking paper about 10cm x 10cm (4in x 4in). Dust the work surface and your hands with flour, roll the dough into a fat sausage, cut into 8 equal parts and roll into balls.
Dust your work surface again, flatten the balls and roll out with a rolling pin into 15cm x 7cm (6in x 2¾in) oval shapes about 3mm (¹/8in) thick. Brush each one lightly with oil and fold in half. Place each on a square of baking paper and leave for 30 minutes to rise.
Preheat the oven to 220C/425F and cook the salmon in the baking dish for 20 minutes, spooning the marinade over the fish after 10 minutes. Set up a steamer and place the bun dough on the baking paper directly into it.
Do this in batches if you don’t have lots of space for them all, as they will expand as they cook. Steam for 5-8 minutes, or until fluffy, pale and firm to the touch.
Meanwhile, place the coriander, lime, cucumber and spring onions in separate bowls. When the salmon is cooked, pour any remaining marinade into a small jug. Serve the buns with the teriyaki salmon, bowls of garnishes and the sauce on the side for self-assembly.
Notes:
If you’re like me and you don’t have a steamer, use a metal colander: Place a metal colander inside of a large pot and fill with just enough water so ingredients in the colander won’t touch the water. Bring to a gentle simmer and cover.
If you’re also like me and don’t have a metal colander (bday gift anyone?) No problem! Make 3 large equal-sized balls out of aluminum foil and arrange in a triangle in the bottom of a large pot. Place a heat-proof plate, such as a pie plate, on top. Fill the pot with water up to just below the plate, bring to a simmer, and cover. You can also balance a metal rack from a baking pan over a boiling pot of water and steam it that way.
Those buns are wonderful Amanda and love the way you did a DIY colander. I love buns and have never made them before. Sounds pretty simple to do, love the salmon filling.
Thank you so much. I was afraid to try, but I just dove right in. It takes a while because you inevitably have to let the dough rise twice, but it’s so worth it for the final result. xo. Hope you’re doing well.
What a wonderful meal but quite an undertaking. Some Asian recipes are easy once you get the ingredients prepped and others are quite intricate. Looks like you did a wonderful job.
Thanks, Jovina. I really had no idea what an undertaking it was until I was already into it. We had dinner at 10p, but it was well worth the wait 🙂
These look delicious..love your research behind the powdered milk. Had my first steamed buns in NYC at The Fatty Crab 5 years ago and have been curious about them ever since. Will be back in NYC in September…maybe a bun tasting in Flushing?
Oh my! If you want authentic Chinese or Korean I totally know where to take you. 32nd Street in Manhattan and Flushing if you want the real deal. Though there are some great places in Chinatown. This will be awesome. I did a lot of research before I made these buns because it called for some ingredients I didn’t have on hand like powdered milk and a steamer. I figured, if I’m in that situation, I’m sure others would have the same questions. Thanks for dropping by, as always. I hope you’re well! xo
Look forward to it…a food tour of New York is my idea of heaven x
This is truly a refreshing recipe for salmon. Love the steamed buns! I love how you just dove in and made them happen, even without a steamer. I don’t own a streamer either and you have two very creative ways to solve that issue here. Love this post Amanda!
Thanks so much, Seana. It’s always so great to hear from you. Actually, I make salmon every Monday using the same simple recipe. I, like you, am a big fan of letting the flavors speak for themselves so i lightly cover it with coarse mustard, like one tablespoon and top with seasonal herbs, usually cilantro and/or dill. It’s part of my sacred Monday routine. It’s the day I get home the latest usually, but it’s also the day I call to talk to my grandma and have a sit down dinner to start the week. I never dreamed of having salmon 2 nights in one week, but this was so different and so light with such unique flavor, I’m glad I actually spent the time waiting for two rises for the buns. It was worth every minute. So great to see you here. I always look forward to what you’re making. xo
These steamed buns look lovely. I like steamed buns a lot mainly for their fancy shape and the different fillings. I got a steamer but have never tried making them. This is an eye opener and now I want to make it at the earliest possible. A very inspiring post!
Thank you! I have no doubt that you could make these perfectly. You really have expanded your horizons so much cooking from so many different places, this would be easy for you! I’d like to start steaming more things. It’s such a wonderful and healthy way to cook and really brings out the natural flavors. Xo
hmm, never made fold buns before, you’re so creative pairing it with salmon teriyaki…
i wish i had your buns, i just made pulled pork….
I’m surprised, Dedy! You make everything. I think you would love these.
They look amazing and I applaud your inventiveness! I love the way Rachel Khoo cooks too 🙂
Thanks, Chica! This was awesome. I seriously have a girl crush 🙂
Bun looks so appetizing.. Love it.. U r not only a great cook but good at DIY also:-) colander s too good
These were so good! Thank you. I think I have to be inventive because my kitchen is so small!!
Your buns look fantastic, Amanda! I guess they can be very versatile and you can combine them with several ingredients. The perfect appetizer for a very cool party!
Thank you, Francesca! You can definitely use these buns for beef or chicken or veggies. I’m gong to experiment. I ate like 3 of them for dinner. xo
Amanda, what a beautiful, elegant recipe. Every French supermarket, even the worst, carries several brands of powdered milk ; they even sell organic nowadays! But I’ve never used it for some reason… the boxes just don’t look very enticing, I guess. And as Francesca mentions in the previous comment, other garnishes would also work (I no longer eat salmon now that toxic Norwegian farmed salmon has become the norm here in France; I’d probably go for teriyaki chicken instead).
It’s funny you enjoy Rachel Khoo, I have several memories involving her: we exchanged emails when she was testing recipes for her cookbook in her “tiny Paris kitchen” though I sadly never managed to get a spot, and she has recently started wearing clothes designed by a friend of mine in London… for photo shoots! (which is really good for my friend, obviously). I have one of her very first cookbooks, a small book on home-made spreads which she wrote in French; haven’t used it in ages!
Omg how cool, Darya! I didn’t know you did that! She seems cool. Oh your friend must make nice clothes because I love her style! I’m not sure that I knew she had another cookbook. So interesting. I might make this recipe with chicken or beef too. I didn’t realize that the fish scene in France was so dire. It’s disheartening but at least people are beginning to become educated. Thank you so much for your sweet comment. Xo
Oh and if you do venture into the oddly ubiquitous powdered milk world use the high heat one, not the low heat one. Only the high works for baking. I don’t get why there is so much powdered milk by you. It’s pretty awful for drinking. 😉
Amanda, here is a link to my friend Dasha’s website: http://mrspomeranz.bigcartel.com/
I have no idea why anyone would want to “drink” reconstituted milk from powder… I’ll ask around, but I doubt anybody I know uses it.
We do have excellent fish here, but not salmon (good salmon costs a fortune and comes from half way around the planet); I’d rather eat it rarely, but eat the best there is.
Oh thanks. Can’t wait to look around! I’m with youin tbe milk and fish.
I’ll never get enough of salmon, love how you prepare it 🙂
Thanks, Lily. I love salmon too. This way was so good but I’ll eat it in any form 😉 thanks for your comment.
How delicious! I’ve marinaded tuna a bit like this, before scorching, but not done salmon. The buns look fantastic, I want to go to China Town for Dim Sum right now! 🙂
Thanks, Md! I could see this working with swordfish too. I’m afraid the steamed buns may have opened a Pandoras box of other dim sum faves. I cannot wait.
Ha ha – I think Pandora will be kind 😉
As kind as you, I hope!
I’m sure 🙂
Teriyaki dim sum! What’s not to love! And they’re so pretty!
I cannot get enough of that wonderful flavor combo. Thanks for your comment, Mimi!
Ah, Amanda, what a great take on the Momofuku pork buns, I love the lighter salmon here and admire your bun production, I remember them being a little painful to make – my tip since Rachel Khoo’s version seems quite close, don’t bother rolling and folding again. Make small buns and cut them open! Nicole
So smart, Nicole. I did find momofukos recipe too to see if he used powdered milk too and he did! Her recipe is similar but he recommends waiting longer for the initial and second rise. I like your tip. I had no intention when I started that this would take as long as it did! Next time I’ll take your advice. Have you done these before? ! Thanks as always for your thoughtful and insightful comment!
I have made the Momofuku recipe three times I think and dropped the whole rolling, folding thing after the first batch took a-g-e-s. Since then, I am happy just forming buns (they looked a bit prettier than my tongue-shaped buns too) and steaming those. They freeze excellently, by the way, if you make a large amount and have some in stock for those moments. If nothing’s left or pressed for time, I substitute a sweetish bread roll like I did here in the two Momofuku pork bun & pork belly ssäm recipes: https://thejameskitchen.wordpress.com/2014/07/27/momofuku-pork-buns/.
No, I have not made Rachel Khoo’s recipe but noticed the similarity and thought about the time-saving dropping of the rolling process….
have a great Sunday, Nicole
Awesome! What a great tip. They must be prettier your way. I didn’t know you clubs freeze them so well. I’m doing it again then! ! Can’t wait to read your recipe. How dogs I not see these? ! Thank you, Nicole.
My pleasure, Amanda, the recipe makes such a large amount and without a group of hungry wolves we could not eat the lot and that’s how I found out that they freeze really good, just steam them again quickly. I love your salmon version and that should work really well with the pickled mustard seeds. Oh, I can’t wait: salmon on Tuesday!
Sorry, me again, I’ve posted that Mascarpone ice cream we were talking about the other time..
Yes!!! I need to get direct emails from your blog. I’ll subscribe tonight. I’m on tbe road so much these days it’s hard to keep up with my reader. I’ve been waiting so patiently for this ice cream.
Me too. We need a reader-alert! I just saw the Teriyaki salmon post before dinner. N.
I’ve never tried steam buns with salmon before. Yours look amazing! Will have to try this soon 🙂
Thanks, Mary Frances. I always thought it would go better with meat, but this salmon was incredible. I highly recommend it 🙂
Amanda this is a lovely recipe. I’m so sorry for being late here- when is your bday sweetheart?xx
Always lovely to see you. My bday isn’t till end of summer so you haven’t missed anything. I’m always dropping kitchen hints for supplies that are always welcome 😉
OH yum I’m so impressed with these Amanda. By the way, after our conversations, my blog is still on .com but I have a new blog on the self hosted.. if I have a moments boredom I might move Papaya Pieces to self hosted too. lets see…
Ohhh I need to check out the new blog and see everything you did!