I often get recipes stuck in my head, like songs. They’re like humming a familiar refrain only it’s more active. I’ll toss the recipes over and over in my mind and imagine how I would execute it, what I would change, what I would add. I imagine pouring the oil, flipping the fish, marinating the mushrooms. The preparation and the taste permeate my dreams. It connects me with a part of myself that lies a little more dormant while drafting complaints or climbing the four flights of stairs to get home. No, I don’t have a farm or a farmhouse in the city, but it’s there in my mind’s eye, in my travels, in my walks to work, in my dreams and in my kitchen. It’s solid.
I’ve mentioned before, on my way to work I walk past Boulud’s restaurants and have this daydream that one day I’ll enter the kitchen (the dining room is totally (almost) doable for a splurge night–hello law school loans). In response to that, a friend sent me an episode of CNN’s Parts Unknown. Among other beautiful scenes of Lyon and the surrounding countryside there is one segment where Anthony Bourdain watches on as Daniel Boulud and his parents recreate a classic country farm dish: a pumpkin stuffed with day-old bread (baked by Boulud’s father), creme fraiche, mushrooms, cheese, and bacon. You can watch the segment here. The first time I saw it I was smitten. The next time I watched it I was moved.
There is something so sacred about returning home (literally or figuratively) and making food that’s easy for you, familiar, with or for the people who know you. It somehow strengthens that invisible fragile strand that forms bonds between people. It extends through time and space and connects you to your roots. I think the depiction of Lyon also planted in my mind the idea of a reprieve from pushing, striving, achieving. It reminded me that there are places where you are welcome and can lay your cares down for just a moment on someone else’s shelf (you can pick them up when you leave, don’t worry) and enjoy with honest abandon, the moment. Something like home. I like that idea. It exists in the form of true gathering. Not just for a special occasion but, in a way that honors the people for whom you care. I feel that feeling most when I’m camping. That place of reprieve shines in the people I love. It’s there with friends. But most importantly, it flickers within me in solitary moments. Home is truly where you make it, within yourself and with people for whom you care.
The squash in this recipe is lavished with everything good. It’s stuff like this that makes evenings gleam and memories last. It feels like home because I grew up in a farming town. Onions were our thing, but also apples and pumpkins. I substituted a kabocha squash (delicious-you must try one) for pumpkin because try as you may you WILL NOT find a pumpkin in NYC after Halloween. Fact. Just as good though, if not better. The bread I used, if I say so myself, is awesome. Also, Guyère just may be the best thing ever invented. You can leave out the bacon, as I did, add chopped meat, add apples, raisins, kale, anything you want to stuff this magnificent squash with. Make the squash your oyster. I kept it simple though because last night was a weeknight. I seriously almost fell over when I tasted it. This dish connected me with my dreams, my farm and farmhouse, my respite and hinted at that rare moment when the difference between how things are and how things should be line up and two concentric circles become one. Not to be hyperbolic or anything, but seriously. Just, yes.
Gruyere, Bread, Scallion Stuffed Kabocha Squash adapted from Daniel Boulud
Serves 3 (ish)
Ingredients:
- 1 pumpkin, about 3 pounds
- Salt and freshly ground pepper
- 1/4 pound stale bread, thinly sliced and cut into 1/2-inch chunks
- 1/4 pound Gruyère cheese cut into 1/2-inch chunks, or shredded, whichever is easier.
- 4 garlic cloves coarsely chopped
- 4 pieces of bacon, fried to crispy and crumbled for good distribution in the squash (I left this out, but he had his farm made pancetta in his recipe so do what you like with it)
- 1/4 cup fresh chives chopped (I used chopped scallions because I had some left over from my sweet potato and dukkah recipe last week)
- 1 tablespoon minced fresh thyme
- About 1/3 cup heavy cream
- generous pinch of freshly grated nutmeg
- cinnamon to taste
- salt and pepper to taste (easy on the salt if you use bacon and remember cheese has salt)
Directions:
Center a rack in the oven and preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.
Using a very sturdy knife—and caution—cut a cap out of the top of the pumpkin/squash. Scoop out the seeds and strings from the cap and from inside the pumpkin. Season the inside of the pumpkin generously with salt and pepper, and put it on the baking sheet or in the pot.
Toss the bread, cheese, garlic, bacon, and herbs together in a bowl. Season with pepper and pack the mix into the pumpkin. The pumpkin should be well filled. Stir the cream with the nutmeg and some salt and pepper and pour it into the squash. You might have too much or too little depending on the size of your squash—you don’t want the ingredients to swim in cream, but you do want them nicely moistened.
Put the cap in place and bake the pumpkin for about 2 hours—check after 90 minutes—or until everything inside the pumpkin is bubbling and the flesh of the squash is tender enough to be pierced easily with the tip of a knife. Because the squash will have exuded liquid, remove the cap during the last 20 minutes or so, so that the liquid can bake away and the top of the stuffing can brown a little.
When the squash is ready, carefully, very carefully—it’s heavy, hot, and wobbly—bring it to the table. To serve, cut like a pie.
So beautiful and delicious Amanda. I love the photo’s and the stuffed squash sounds wonderful.
Thank you. It really was delicious. I’ll be making that again with different stuffings throughout the season.
What a great presentation, Amanda! I don’t think I have ever eaten Kabocha before…
Thanks, Debbie. This was my first one! It’s really good. Very much like acorn, but a little sweeter, like butternut. It’s definitely going to be my new thing.
I will keep my eye out for one. I would like to try it. Thanks for sharing!
Great writing and beautiful photos! That recipe looks totally delicious! I am always looking for ways to use squash.
Thank you! This is so worth it. It takes a while to bake, but the preparation is pretty simple after you carve the top off.
You definitely picked a beautiful squash for the recipe! There’s also a great show by Bill Buford called Fat Man in a White Hat, where he goes to Lyon to learn about food, but I can only find a short online clip on bread. I wish I could find the two full shows, as I’m sure you’d love them.
I want a farmhouse too, or at least the kitchen, with a ham slowly smoking up the chimney 😉
Md! I totally missed your comment. So glad you saw this: ) I think Buford was in the bourdain episode. I will find it, don’t worry. It would be lovely to have a farmhouse. And funny, yesterday I found a ton of pumpkins on sale for 99 cents/lb a block from my house. Sigh. Now I can make it just like the original.
I’m really glad you liked the Anthony Bourdain video – it was one of his best shows IMHO. I can almost imagine your kitchen table with a big pile of pumpkins sitting on it 🙂
Just watched the video. Great as always. You truly are a wealth of knowledge. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks Amanda 🙂
Wonderful writing, as usual. You certainly captured this audience! The squash dish looks marvellous – definitely something to try. And, yes, Kabocha squash is fab! Pumpkins also disappear here from the markets after Halloween.
Thank you! I’m so glad you enjoy my thoughts. I actually think the way you cook, you’d really like this dish and could get very creative with it. You should have seen the carcass when we were through with it!
I experimented a bit with squash this season, too – tasting varieties I didn´t know. I love this recipe, gruyère is my favorite cheese of all! Mmmm, Amanda, sounds so good!
Isn’t it amazing how many varieties of squash there are?! Thanks so much for your compliments. Guyere is seriously amazing. Thanks for the logo compliments too. I love yours as well. I only half created it. I searched everywhere for images that I thought were “me”. I found these vintage utensil drawings in public domain (total lawyer i know) then I modified them in paintbrush. I have almost no computer skills. It’s a wonder I manage to upload photos to a blog!
It all looks totally fine, Amanda. I don´t have much computer skills either. That´s what happens when you spend quite some time in the kitchen, I guess 😉 + have a profession where that´s not really essential (I´m a doctor). And I find it really cool that you looked for the logo motifs in public domain! Have a great 2nd advent weekend!
Cool a dr! I love meeting other professionals who also share the same values. Your site is beautiful.
PS: A beautiful logo, very vintage-y! Did you create it yourself?
Lovely, Amanda. I love how you describe cooking with and for family and friends; I really enjoy cooking for friends, but for some reason cooking for my parents is a bit more complicated, I enjoy it, but it makes me nervous, and I prefer bringing food I make than making it in front of my parents.
The squash looks quite delicious, and perfect one-dish meal.
Thanks, Darya. I totally agree with you. I’m usually camping with my cousins, brother and husband so it’s all communal. Cooking for my parents scares me too! I actually feel that homey feeling when my mom cooks for me rather than the other way around. PS your brunch menu looked unbelievable. More to come, but I’m still working like a dog. I wrote this post well after midnight and was up in the morning for a meeting. 🙂 Ahh!
This is a great recipe amanda. I am always looking for recipes for stuffing vegetables, since I have several faily members who are vegetarian.
I have been to Boulud’s New York restaurant a number of years ago. Nice to read it is still there.
Thanks, Jovina. Oh yes, he has 3 here that I know of. A few of them are all together on the West side and his restaurant Daniel is on the East side. I go to the Epicerie a lot because it’s quick and you stand while you eat and drink, very European. As for this dish, it’s just a perfect country meal with good ingredients. I’ve stuffed acorn squashes before and eggplants and peppers, but this is something special. 🙂
I love this post. I completely identify with what you wrote about getting recipes stuck in your head like a song- especially the part about virtually executing all the recipes and ideas. I sometimes feel like food just won’t leave me alone! But then again, there’s something enjoyable about having your own cooking show in your head. 😉
I love the flavors of this dish. I’ve never tried kabocha squash, but if it’s anything like butternut squash, I’m sure I’d love it, especially with Gruyere and bread! All the best, Chaya
Thanks, Chaya. So nice to hear from you. Yeah it’s so weird how dishes get stuck in my head. It’s not as pleasant as it seems, more like a nagging desire. This was my first kabocha and it’s kind of like an acornish/butternut. Really good. A few years ago I didn’t even eat squash. Imagine that. All part of the journey. I hope you’re doing well! xo.
This sounds like a wonderfully rustic dish!
Thanks, Mary Frances. It really is a very country fave.
A fun, satisfying and palate pleasing kabocha recipe. 😛 I am planning on making a very simple Japanese recipe with kabocha in the next few days. Your recipes is very tempting. Being in season, I had the most delicious kabocha deserts in Japan too.
Omg i need to see what you make. I’m loving this squash, fae. Kabocha desserts? Share!
Absolutely beautiful Amanda 🙂 The story, the pictures and the food. You’re very talented Amanda. I really enjoy reading your post!
Thank you so much. I enjoy yours too. I salivate over your baked goods. It is really nice to know that you read the posts though. I love your comments.
Looks and sounds lovely 🙂
Thanks, Elaine. So sweet.
You talk of the essence of history and family in cooking, that’s what my blog endeavours to capture, a connection with your roots. So many seem to be caught up in fashion and superfood diets. They forget that their nearest and dearest ancestors did quite nicely on fresh seasonal food that was available and cheap. Waste used to be a dirty word. Love this recipe, I’ve bookmarked it for autumn
Thank you. What a great comment. I completely agree. Food is and should be about gathering and when it can’t be eats about connections Even when you’re alone. . To your thoughts, the earth, your ancestry, etc. Thanks for your lovely comment.
So wonderfully said Sandra.
Stunning words, sentiment, recipe and photos – and I love the new header!
Oh yay! Thank you. Love your comment, Chica. I really appreciate it. Xo
Oh my gosh Amanda. Just reading the ingredients I can taste it. I’m going to make this for sure. I haven’t cooked a kabocha squash yet. And the fact that you almost fell over when you tasted it is good enough for me! We are huge Bourdain fans and I thought we’ve seen every single episode (and some more than once or twice) but I don’t think we’ve watch this particular one. Thank you for this recipe and post, it’s beautiful.
Seana, you’d love this. The squash was amazing. If you can get your hands on his Lyon trip episode you’ll see why I was so moved. I hope you make this! Hope you’re doing well too. I always am so happy to see you here. 🙂
oh, so good! Kabocha is my #1 favorite squash, though not always sure how to tell the difference between that and buttercup. But I love the dark flesh and dense sweetness. You’ve made it even better with your additions–yum, cheese and bread! Great use for your bread 🙂
Thanks, Liz. I can see why is your fave. For a while i couldn’t tell it apart from other ones either. Now i know…i think. This recipe is a keeper.
I can’t think of a more lovely dinner. Even better than you’d have at Boulud (excellent though it is).
Thanks, Michelle. I totally agree. This one was special.
gone gone gone – I’ve been gone so long.
And look what i missed.
I love kabocha squash.
I love squash. That dose of beta carotene. The sweet nutty flavour. The endless uses.
And yet, I’ve never done a stuffed squash. So perhaps soon i will try yours.
Totally agree that home is a state of mind.
lovely lovely post.
of course.
xo
Don’t sweat it. We all do what we can. It’s a bit of an overwhelming season anyway. I love that you love this squash. So do I. So good and good for you. Stuff one with whatever you want! This recipe was fantastic. Whenever you get a chance. I should take my own advice and not get down on myself if I don’t have time for everything I love right now. But I want to!!! Hope you’re doing okay, Lindy! xo
A new squash along with a new preparation. Something very comforting about this dish.
I completely agree. Thanks, Karen.
On our farmers markets last day for the year, I stopped to purchase a kabocha squash but ended up buying a delicata instead. Had aI known you’d be sharing this recipe with us, I would have bought 2 kabocha. What a wonderful dish, presentation and all, Amanda, and your photography is superb. Very nicely done.
What a thoughtful comment. Thanks. Delicata squash may actually be my new favorite. This year i tried so many new ones. This recipe is so worth a try. Thanks for the compliments. I’m always trying to improve the photos. The problem is that unless it’s a weekend I’m never home to see the sun. That’s what weekends are for i suppose. How you are well. Thanks again.