Fairy tales are more than true — not because they tell us dragons exist, but because they tell us dragons can be beaten. G.K. Chesterton
One of the deepest and strangest mysteries of winter is how we get through it without our spirits breaking. In the dark months, the cryptic is king. Gnarly roots, bubbling broths, twisted shapes, pinches of earthly spice, it’s the stuff of fairy tales. For me winter sets the tone for challenge. Sometimes just breathing in the cold seems difficult. But challenges build character and once you embrace the challenge, you’ll find your strength.
With the temperatures well below freezing yesterday, the stage was set for me to pull out my cauldron and start my witch’s brew. I collected the ugliest and most whimsical roots I could find to throw them in a pot and make a scalding soup out of them.
Like in any fairy tale, this ugly celeriac has a burning secret. The scary and unfamiliar actually masks an inner beauty in the form of incredible taste! The celery flavor of the celery root monster is buttery, luscious, creamy and surprisingly concentrated. Pair it with tart apples and smoky pepper and a pinch of salt and you’ve got yourself a keeper for the winter. The root is extremely versatile so you can add whatever you want to this broth: apples, chorizo, cilantro, olive oil, ginger, turmeric, chives, scallions, anything really. My recipe is just a sketch. You can also safely eat this ravishing beauty raw. As my potion (aka soup) was brewing I combined little julienned bits of celeriac with the diced apple and some pepper strands for a little winter/fall salad.
So how are we to brave the storms? By embracing the challenges. Winter sports are definitely part of my arsenal. But I think this soup and others like it are part of the answer. It’s us fighting back in the kitchen, doing battle with the elements and defeating the frost-breathing dragon from the inside out.
Ingredients:
- 1 large celeriac (celery root) peeled and cut roughly into 1 inch cubes (See directions below for cutting instructions)
- 2 tablespoons olive oil
- 1 leek, cleaned and chopped (white and light green part only)
- 1 parsnip, peeled and chopped
- 2 apples, peeled and chopped
- 2 celery stalks (optional)
- 1 inch ginger (optional), finely chopped
- kosher salt
- 2 garlic cloves, peeled and thinly sliced
- 4 cups chicken stock
- 1 onion, chopped
- 1 to 1 1/2 teaspoons freshly-ground white pepper
- scant 1/8 teaspoon smoked paprika
- strands of Korean smoked pepper, Sil koch’u
Directions:
To cut the celery root, muster your courage and a chefs knife. Ruthlessly saw off the gnarly roots and whiskered patches, stopping just after you’ve gone past the skin. You’ll have a lopsided sculpture, but it does the trick. From there cut into cubes or wedges as desired.
In a large pot, heat the olive oil. Add the leek and onion and cook for about five minutes, stirring frequently. Add the garlic cloves and season with salt. Continue to cook until the leeks and garlic are soft and translucent. Add the celery root, parsnip, ONE of the apples and stock. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a strong simmer. Cook, with the lid to the pot ajar on top, until the celery root pieces are soft and easily pierced with a paring knife, about thirty minutes.
Add pepper and chili powder, then purée using a hand mixer, or let the soup cool to room temperature and whiz in a blender until smooth. Taste and season with additional salt and pepper if desired. If the soup is too thick, it can be thinned with water or stock.
To serve, fill bowls with the other chopped apple and ladle puree into bowls. Top with chili strands and a little olive oil or more smoked paprika. This dish can be altered to add chorizo, cilantro or any other ingredients you have on hand that would enhance the flavor.
Jovina Coughlin
I never made soup with celery root. Looks like it is time to try it. Your recipe looks delicious.
Amanda
Thanks, Jovina. This was my first time too and I’m shocked I waited so long. It was really good!
Mad Dog
I love celeriac and it’s an excellent soup base. I used it with leftover hake once and it was amazing!
It’s also delicious mashed and turned into little balls, floured and then fried in olive oil 😉
Amanda
OMG MD, those are such great ideas. This is my first time using it, but YES I can see it with fish, as a base or fried! Brilliant.
Joseph Michael
Such varying flavors! Would love to try this!! You’ve done it again, Manda!! 🙂
Amanda
Thanks, JM! There’s lots of good stuff in there. I didn’t have to worry about veggies with this meal. I had it with herb-crusted, honey mustard salmon. Perfect combo.
Fig & Quince
Winter does seem to mean business this year in New York. It’s crazy cold! I’ve never tried celeriac but I’m bumping into here and there in the blogosphere & would love to try this lovely soup. But really I’m commenting because I absolutely adored the writing in this post. So. Good!
Amanda
Thanks so much, Azita. You’re a great writer as well. You should try this ugly thing. Great flavor! I know you’re here in NYC too and it’s freezing! We won’t be doing much biking anytime soon.
Fig & Quince
I forgot to mention that your post DID inspire me to try the awesome ugly beautiful celery root. It’s on my farmer’s market agenda 😉
Amanda
Awesome, Azita! I’m learning how versatile it is from people’s comments. Looking forward to a celeriac post from you.
Johnny Hepburn
I’m with Azita (F&G). Loved your summary! Hah, wish I could say the same about celeriac, though. I did give it a good shot last winter (it’s their aftertaste I dislike). And can eat them roasted. Just about!
Amanda
Thank you, Johnny! You’re too sweet. I can see how if you’re not into intense celery, you would not be into this ugly monster. I think you could disguise it roasted with spices 🙂 But you should probably stick to squash or a sweeter root.
Chica Andaluza
Love celeriac but don’t use it enough – gorgeous recipe and stunning photos – am going to send this to a pal of mine who was asking me for ideas for celeriac the other day 🙂
Amanda
Thanks, Chica. I hope your friend likes it. Mad Dog also made some good suggestions, like serving it with fish, maybe as a puree base or frying it up in little balls. It’s a really versatile root. The soup definitely is worth a shot.
Fae's Twist & Tango
OMG, Amanda, Two photos of celeriac are quite amazing and goes so well with your story. Can a soup be any better with purred vegetables and apples? Soups look very delectable.
Amanda
Thank you, Fae! It really is marvelously ugly! The soup was even better the second day. The apples make the dish.
Darya
I love celeriac, and often make soups out of it! My favorite is celeriac and chestnut soup, a great combination! Here in France, they love making “céleri rémoulade”, which is grated celeriac and tons of mayo; I make a lighter version of it using yoghurt. But I often run out of ideas, and your soup with apples and parsnips sounds delicious! I love the addition of ginger and smoked paprika, yum!
Amanda
Wow, Darya. I like the remoulade idea and your yogurt substitution. You’ll have to write about our when you continue your celery series. I hadn’t thought of chestnuts. Delicious. They’re in season right now and is love to use them in a dish. You’re a wealth of ideas!
Darya
Acutally, I have already given a recipe for “rémoulade celery root” on the blog: http://tortore.wordpress.com/2012/11/26/remoulade-de-celeri-revisitee/
I have just finished eating lunch, and I was thinking I should share this recipe idea with you as well : celeriac pasta puttanesca (I changed the recipe, steaming the celeriac pasta, and using a traditional puttanesca sauce with anchovies): http://www.mynewroots.org/site/2013/10/celeriac-pasta-with-puttanesca-sauce/
🙂
Amanda
Omg! Thank you! These both look incredible. I just had breakfast but I now know what to experiment with for lunch.
Cheesy Biscuit
I’ve only ever made celeriac & apple soup, but I really like the addition of parsnip here for a bit of sweetness… I’ll be trying that! Looks wholesome and delish.
Amanda
Oh nice! Parsnips and leeks add texture and flavor but I bet it who’s be delicious with just celeriac and apples. Thanks so much for your comment!
PotSoup
A lovely looking root that is.
Amanda
🙂 Gorgeous!
Petit World Citizen
Hi Amanda, Just this weekend I too tried celery root in a soup with leek and apples for the first time. It was great. Did you add red or green apples? My recipe called for green. Your recipe includes more ingredients and spices (parsnip, ginger and smoked paprika) which all sound like fabulous additions for taste and texture! Thank you for the ideas! ~ Martine
Amanda
Thanks for dropping by, Martine! I used green as well. Soups are pretty versatile so I Betty anything you ads to yours will enhance it
Enjoy and thanks for your comments 🙂