Chicken and rice. It’s the embodiment of comfort food. It’s weekends at my grandparents’ house where they would lift me up in fire-smothering hugs on my way in and out and a few times in between. If it wasn’t meatballs, it was chicken and rice. Grandma served to everyone, but never made a place for herself. And until I was old enough to stay up after the sun went down (and even sometimes now), I believed the sustenance she got from the food she so closely tended to, eliminated her need to eat it. I wondered if she knew how good her chicken and rice was. If she knew, then certainly she would sit down with us and eat it. When I did catch her eating every once in a while, she wouldn’t affirm like we did that she was certainly the best cook ever. She would say, “but don’t you think it’s a little dry?” or “this one isn’t as bad as the last one,” measuring herself to a standard I didn’t understand. The standard of a culture, of never settling for excellence, but always striving to grow. I get that now.
My husband has been asking me for chicken and rice lately. He grew up in a Colombian household where chicken and rice was dinner almost every night. My grandma’s version of chicken and rice is closest to the Jerusalem cookbook’s version of it, recreated on the blog here, as Grandma never really used a recipe. While we’ve both been craving comfort lately and resisting the natural contraction of life that comes with colder weather and scary world events, I wanted to keep expanding and growing, rising to the exponentially elusive estate of excellence. And let me tell you, this chicken and rice is EXCELLENT. I ripped the recipe right off of Lady and Pup’s blog. Her blog and this chicken are total game changers. I switched up the rice, but followed the method to a T. Hers is another mama’s version from yet another culture where chicken and rice is a staple passed on through the generations. Chicken and rice to these generations is more than just a meal. It’s a battle against hardship, it’s perseverance, growing roots, expanding broken branches, love, loss, remembrance, gathering and nourishment.
When the impulse to cook chicken and rice called to me once again, I wanted to do so in a celebratory and joyful way with flavors that were like a new cloak on old beautiful memories. This is where Mandy’s awesome recipe comes in. Briny meets salty, sweet, tart and heat all in a forkful. The anise and garlic-infused marinade is a slow overnight process before the chicken legs are braised to tender perfection and laid upon a bed of Chinese forbidden rice, so deeply purple that it looks black as night from afar. Its roasted, nutty taste and soft texture led to its being treasured by royalty. Ginger and red pepper add a bright contrast to the depth of the two different qualities of soy sauce. The Sichuan peppercorns are key here too. They have slight lemony overtones and create a tingly numbness in the mouth that sets the stage for the chopped red pepper. They are pungent, but produce a strange, effect on the tongue like drinking a carbonated beverage. Paired with a good brown home brew, this dish effortlessly assumed the chicken and rice mantle in a fresh and powerful way. I hope it does for you too. Be well.
BRAISED CHICKEN LEGS W/ FRIED CAPERS ON FORBIDDEN RICE
INGREDIENTS:
For The Braised Chicken Legs:
- 4 large whole chicken legs
- 1 tbsp canola oil
- 16 slices (50 grams) ginger
- 11 cloves garlic, chopped
- 4 star anise
- 1 1/2 tbsp sichuan peppercorns
- 3/4 cup (168 grams) soy sauce
- 1/2 cup (110 grams) Chinese shoaxing wine
- 1/4 cup (56 grams) dark soy sauce (important for color)
- 3 tbsp (35 grams) light brown sugar
- 1 cup (240 grams) unsalted chicken stock
For The Fried Chili Capers:
- 1/2 cup (80 grams) brined capers, drained
- 4~6 small red chilis, chopped
- 1 1/2 tbsp canola oil
- 1 1/2 tsp rice vinegar
- 1/3 tsp granulated sugar
To Serve:
- Forbidden rice (but see Mandy’s incredible tutorial on rice-making here)
- Crispy fried eggs
- Shishito Peppers as an optional side
- Ground white pepper for dusting
DIRECTIONS:
For The Braised Chicken Legs:
Start the day before. In a skillet over medium-high heat, add canola oil and sliced ginger, cook for a couple min until the edges of the gingers are slightly browned. Add the chopped garlic, star anise and sichuan peppercorns, and cook for another min until fragrant. Transfer the mixture into a large container, along with soy sauce, shoaxing wine, dark soy sauce and light brown sugar. Stir until the sugar has melted, then evenly coat and marinate the chicken legs in the container for about 18~24 hours, rearranging/flipping the chickens once in between.
Transfer everything into a large pot and add the unsalted chicken stock. Bring it to a simmer then cover with lid, leaving a small opening for steam to escape. Every 10 min or so, flip and baste the chicken legs with the braising liquid, and continue to cook for 30~40 min (depending on the size of chicken legs) until tender but still juicy. The meats should not be falling off the bones or anything like that. They will be still supple.
Remove the chicken legs from the pot, then strain the braising liquid through a sieve. Discard the solids, then skim off of excess fat on the top. But it’s important to leave some fat in the liquid for flavours. Return the legs back to into the liquid.
For the Fried Chili Capers:
While the chicken legs are cooking, place the capers in enough water to submerge, and let soak for 3~4 min to get rid of excess saltiness. Drain well then roughly chop them. Heat the canola oil in a skillet over medium-high heat, then add the chopped capers, red chilis, rice vinegar and sugar, and cook for a few min until the edges of the capers start to shrivel and brown just slightly. Let cool and set aside until needed.
To Serve:
Serve the chicken legs over hot steamed rice with fried chili capers and crispy eggs, with a generous pouring of the sauce over the rice and eggs. Dust with a bit of white pepper.
That looks wonderful and just the perfect amount of garlic for me! I will have to buy and cook some forbidden rice – just the name of it sounds sexy.
I missed you last week – I’m glad to see you back 🙂
Thanks, Mad Dog. This is really a good dish. I agree about the garlic. Sooo flavorful. Thanks for missing me. My dad was worried and txted me. I just got caught up at work. But I’m back and have some good stuff coming up. I hope you’re well. Xo
Excellent! All is well here – I’m off to Spain next week and really looking forward to it 🙂
Great! And jealous!! Eat well!
Thanks!
This is a wonderful recipe Amanda – so many levels of flavor. I occasionally make black rice, but the Italian variety and it is very tasty. The Asian seasonings must add considerable depth and flavor. Such an interesting meal. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks, jovina. That’s exactly what I love about this. It’s the depth and different qualities of the flavor. Black rice is good on it’s own so I’m sure yours is amazing. My favorite part here is the capers. So good. Thanks for your comment as always. It’s great to see you.
Great recipe Amanda, the photo’s are beautiful also. Black(forbidden) rice is wonderful. Everything sounds incredibly flavorful.
Thanks so much. This chicken was so flavorful. And black rice is good for you. I rarely use it but I love it. Thanks for being here. Xo
“The natural contraction of life that comes with colder weather” is such a wonderful phrasing for how I feel these days (though it’s still very warm here). This might be comfort food for some, but to me it is a totally new combination of flavors! I would never have thought of adding fried capers to an Asian inspired chicken recipe. It sounds quite delicious anyway!
It’s still warm here too, but I know what’s coming. It’s new flavors for me too, but it’s a recipe that was passed down from Mandy’s mom and the capers were a substitute for a harder to find Chinese ingredient, but it all worked perfectly. It was new and comforting at the same time and so so good. I hope you’re doing well. Linda (Petit Paniere) made your buns yesterday and posted them on instagram with some nice compliments about you 🙂 Thanks for stopping by. I hope you’re well.
I’m ok; it is hard not to think of the recent events all the time, and the atmosphere here isn’t too great, but it will eventually pass…
Linda wrote to me, and eventhough I don’t have Instagram I could still see her picture of the buns, I’m glad she liked them. It’s nice to hear back from people who try your recipes!
I totally agree. And I completely understand. The contraction of life comes after horrifying world events too. I didn’t leave my house on Saturday. It’s sad and scary and part of a bigger problem. It’s helpful to know that some major organizations like Human Rights Watch, that I work with sometimes on cases has been monitoring the larger situation and looking into humane efforts to combat this type of thing for years before this. Still very scary and awful and it will take time. I’m thinking of you and our thoughts in NY are in France. You can feel it here too.
you’re so right that chicken + rice is such a comfort food. my favorite version is the vietnamese version, which is based off of the hainese chicken + rice. my second favorite is khao man gai, the thai version, which is also based off the hainese one. though, i am not a fan of the chinese version. go figure.
So funny. I do love thai and Vietnamese as well. It’s amazing to me that they all are the same thing but treated so differently that you’d barely know it. Like meatballs, eery culture puts it’s spin on it. So great to hear from you. Be well. Xo
I love it when you share your memories with the recipe! And what a recipe – that rice sounds so good too 🙂
Thanks so much, Chica. It’s nice to know that you appreciate them. It does feel like sharing a huge piece of myself when I share the recipe like that. Always great to hear from you. Be well.
I never NOT worry about you and your sibs. This was another lovely post…both prose and recipe. Ask mom about my favorite comfort food and see if you can make a delicious variation.
Try to find time to write more.
You know I love you always….
Your fatha
Thanks, Dad. I don’t know what your comfort food is. I know it’s chicken at grandma’s, but I’m not sure at home. If mom let’s me in the kitchen I’ll try to make it next weekend after Thanksgiving. Writing is cathartic and difficult and I may get back to the stories at some point. I’m okay. No need to worry even if it’s your job. Looking fwd to seeing you next week. Hope you had fun at grandma’s today. Say hi to the General. Love you too. Ya daughta
Awww, such a lovely post, inspired by family and like right in time for the biggest family day in America, heehee 😀
But seriously, I appreciate this post a lot (probably because I just love the way you write) 🙂
And like Darya, I wouldn’t have thought to fry capers and add it to this, mmmhmmm!!
Sooooo freakin good Amanda.
Thanks, Dana. The comfort food is all Coney Island and now with a hint of fried briny wonderfulness. I love your comments. It’s such a beautiful feeling when your writing resonates with people. I happen to think you’re laugh out loud funny because you’re spot on all the time. I do need a time it to catch up on commenting but I’m still reading. Hope you’re loving your job still. Xo
Nothing will stop me from duplicating this…verbatim. What a post Amanda. I love the recipe and even more love your written word. I have to say I also smiled when I read your exchange with your father…or fatha, rather. Have a wonderful Thanksgiving with your family. 🙂
Haha. Thank you, Seana! We have Brooklyn accents, he more than I because he grew up there and I was raised upstate mostly. There is something special about chicken and rice and this was so, so good. So much flavor. Thanks for such a beautiful comment. I always look forward to hearing from you, truly. It helps to get encouragement for the things you hold dear. I hope you’re doing well. Have a wonderful thanksgiving too. Xo
Mexican meat (turkey for coronary artery people) loaf. Super comfort meal… With baked potato super spicy..
Love always,
Your fatha
BTW,
Try to bring ALL this year
Oh right. Mexican meat loaf with baked potato. The bane of my existence. Some classics should just never be touched. They’re too perfect. I’ll do my best. Gnite.
Nite,sweetheart
Your post is amazing Amanda not only the flavorful recipe but also your words. This dish looks perfectly cooked and really tempting. Have a nice day! 🙂
Thank you, Linda! I really appreciate your kind comments. This one is a keeper.
This looks so incredibly delicious. I love chicken and rice, especially made with yellow rice (my favorite). Major comfort food.
Thank you, Loran! Yellow rice is so good 🙂 enjoy the weekend!
What a lovely written post, Amanda. My mother was a very plain cook, she said she didn’t even like to cook. Your post brought memories back of her chicken and rice, I always liked it. 🙂 With all the wonderful ingredients in this recipe, it could be nothing but great.
Thanks, Karen. That’s so funny about your mom. Sometimes my grandma said “Im not really a cook”. But clearly she was. She cooked the food right in front of me. I didn’t understand what she was trying to say or false modesty. She cooked well. If you can make chicken and rice, you cook. 🙂 enjoy the weekend.
This is so beautiful, and the post is lovely as well. I’ve never fried capers! Can’t wait to try that out!
Thank you, Mimi! They add a briny flavor that matches so well with the flavors of the chicken. Have a great weekend!
You’ve made chicken and rice in to a work of art <3
Oh, my goodness, Amanda. This is my kind of dinner. It looks so scrumptious.